If you don't even have the slightest clue of what AHA is, you need to read this blog post.
On today's chapter of Skincare Talk, a new
series or segment on my blog that I've decided to start to share what I've learnt with you guys, I will be talking about AHA, otherwise an abbreviation of, Alpha Hydroxy Acid. So let's get straight into it.
AHA, or Alpha Hydroxy Acid, is a water soluble acid that is capable of breaking down the "glue" which holds the top layers of our skin cells together, resulting the top layers of skin to shed off, and therefore revealing newer layers of skin quicker than the average cell turnover rate of 4 to 6 weeks.
Due to this ability, it is a commonly known as a
chemical exfoliant. At the same time, since AHA is water soluble, it also serves as a
humectant, which, if you've read my blog post on
how to moisturize your skin the correct way, you'd know that a humectant is a substance that attracts and retains moisture, making it well-loved and suitable for those who have dry skin.
Naturally, our skin renews every 4 to 6 weeks, but as we age, this cycle gets longer, causing a potential build up of dead skin cells on the top utmost layers of our skin. This layer of dead skin cells can become a source of food for acne-causing bacteria, clog pores, contribute to dull looking skin, intensify the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, slow down healing of hyper-pigmentation and acne scars, and even prevent our skin from absorbing in the goodness of our other skincare products. Thus, to solve and prevent these issues from even occurring in the first place, frequent exfoliation is required as part of our skincare routine.
Exfoliation, I'm sure we all know, is the process of removing dead skin cells and there are two methods available: chemical exfoliation, or physical exfoliation. Physical exfoliation is where you'd
physically remove dead skin cells by washing your face with a wash cloth, or using a scrub, or going for dermabrasion or microdermabrasion treatments. Chemical exfoliation is when you make use of a chemical, such as AHA, to rid off dead skin cells. Apart from AHA, there are other chemical exfoliants but I will talk about them in future blog posts.
Now that we know the purpose of AHA and how it works to benefit our skin, let's take a brief look at the different types of AHA that is commonly found in skincare products (i.e. I won't be going through those that I haven't encountered). AHA, can be derived from many different sources and depending on that, it takes on a different name which is why you don't ever see "Alpha Hydroxy Acid" in the ingredient list.
1.
Glycolic Acid: Possibly the most common AHA, glycolic acid is derived from fruits, namely cane sugar and it is the most popular one as it has the smallest molecules out of all AHAs, enabling it to penetrate deeper into our skin to loosen the "glue" from multiple layers of our skin at once, hence making it the strongest and most effective AHA.
2.
Mandelic Acid: I first learnt about mandelic acid when I was reviewing the By Wishtrend Mandelic Skin Prep Water. It is derived from nuts, specifically almonds, so apparently if you have a nut allergy you should refrain from using this! In contrast to glycolic acid, mandelic acid has one of the biggest molecules in the family of AHAs, making it more suitable for people with sensitive skin, or if you're someone who simply prefers to be gentle with your skin.
3.
Lactic Acid: Lactic acid is derived from diary and it's the in between of the first two acids. It has molecules that are bigger than glycolic acid, but smaller than mandelic acid.
4.
Citric Acid: The last AHA I thought was worth mentioning is citric acid and if it's not obvious enough, it is derived mainly from citrus fruits. It's uncommon for people to think of citric acid as a chemical exfoliant even though it is an AHA, because it is usually used to simply balance and adjust the pH levels of the skincare product. I wanted to mention this because I always see citric acid in my skincare products.
"
So... If I want something stronger, I'll just go for glycolic acid, and if I want something more gentle, I should go for mandelic acid? Simple!"
Well... Sort of, but not quite. Acids can have adverse effects on your skin if used incorrectly (
been there, done that) so it's actually not that straight-forward. There are a few other (
very important) things you need to take note of before you even go out there and buy something with AHA.
1. Concentration and strength of the acid
Basically, to keep things simple and short, a product with 10% of mandelic acid can be harsher on your skin as compared to a product with 2% of glycolic acid.
Also, just because it says "glycolic acid" on the packaging, doesn't mean it's going to be as effective as another product with glycolic acid. One of my biggest pet peeves is when skincare companies don't put the % on the packaging and sometimes you can't even find that information on their website! It could be 0.01%, who knows? This is why I avoid all skincare products that doesn't give me that information, and you should too if you want to avoid wasting time and money.
2. Your skin's tolerance
It is possible to train your skin to tolerate higher concentrates of acids, but just like how you won't be picking up a 20kg dumbbell after a week of using a 5kg one, you want to do this slowly and progressively.
Never used an AHA in your life? Try 2% - 5%. The
Mario Badescu Glycolic Acid Toner is a good one to start out if you have sensitive skin as it contains aloe vera for soothing properties, it is alcohol-free, and it only contains 2% of glycolic acid. Based on my personal experience on my skin, I find that 5% of AHA works best for when I had
non-sensitive skin. You will not be able to tell a visible glowy difference overnight, but it will be keep your skin's texture smooth and prevent excessive clogging. You'll be able to find 5% of AHA in the
Pixi Glow Tonic (5% Glycolic), the
Wishtrend Mandelic Acid 5% Skin Prep Water (5% Mandelic), the
Paula's Choice Resist Advance Daily Smoothing Treatment (5% Glycolic),
The Ordinary 5% Lactic Acid + HA (5% Lactic), and the
Krave Kale-Lalu-yAHA (5.25% Glycolic).
If you have confidence in your skin and you want to immediately try out a higher concentrate, sure thing. Just use it once a week first, and then slowly increase the frequency as you go along. The Ordinary has a
7% Glycolic Acid toner, a
10% Mandelic Acid serum, a
10% Lactic Acid serum, Paula's Choice has a
10% AHA Advance Smoothing Treatment, and of course one of my favourite... The
Drunk Elephant T.L.C Framboos Glycolic Night Serum with 12% of AHA blend.
Start slow. I cannot emphasize this enough but the key thing is to listen to your skin. When I was using the Pixi Glow Tonic on my non-sensitive skin, I did not have any redness, irritations, whatsoever and so I was able to use it daily. However, when I used the Krave Kale-Lalu-yAHA on my sensitive skin, it stung my skin even though I was only using it 2 nights a week. Once that burning sensation happens and persists for over a minute,
wash it off immediately and focus on hydrating your skin first before trying to reincorporate it back to your routine. Again, if your skin is telling you that it's too much, it
is too much.
3. You need to hydrate and use sunscreen
Properly hydrating your skin and sunscreen are the essentials and basic steps of skin care. Therefore, if you can't even get these basic steps right, don't bother advancing into chemical exfoliants because if you're gonna use AHA without a proper hydrating routine or sunscreen, you are going to dry out your skin, dehydrate it, destroy your skin's protective barrier, and make it even more prone to sun damages, such as darkened scars and dull skin.
In conclusion, AHA are amazing for their ability to speed up cell turnover rate without being physically damaging and traumatizing on the surface of our skin, if used correctly. Due to it being water soluble, I find that AHA is more suitable for people with dry skin. As someone with acne-prone and oily skin, I find that there are limitations to what AHA can do for my skin.
Labels: beauty, face, review, skincare, skincare talk, tips
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