Skincare Talk: MASSIVE SUNSCREEN REVIEW!

Wednesday, 31 July 2019 at July 31, 2019

You might be moisturizing your skin the right way, you might be applying anti-aging essences everyday, you might be drinking collagen supplements everyday, but if you're not wearing sunscreen every single day, you're as good as not doing anything for your skin. The list of the damages sun exposure can bring your skin is endless, and even deadly, which is why it is so important to protect our skin from the sun.
I've seen way too many people skipping out on sunscreen just because they won't be heading out (unless you've closed all the curtains in your house, UV rays can still penetrate your windows!), or their foundation has SPF (not enough!), or they are simply lazy. While sunscreen prevents skin problems such as aging, acne, redness, damaged skin, freckles, and many many more, sunscreen also promotes healing of the skin especially if you have skin discolouration or hyper-pigmentation such as acne marks.

Another common skincare mistake people make is not putting enough sunscreen. As mentioned, some people thinks it's enough just because their foundation has sunscreen... Unless you pile on a 0.5mm thick layer of foundation on your skin... Your foundation isn't gonna provide sufficient protection for you. I've also seen many people applying just a pea sized of sunscreen on their skin which isn't enough too. You can cut back on the essences, the serums, the moisturizer, but when it comes to sunscreen, you have to be generous with your application!


Before you run out and buy yourself a random sunscreen with the highest SPF or start slapping layers and layers of sunscreen on your face, finish this blog post as unfortunately, like every single type of skincare product, not all sunscreen is good for your skin. For a product that you need to use every single day without fail, it is important that the ingredients will not cause any damage or clogging. In addition, since sunscreen is the last step of my skincare routine, it is important that my sunscreen has a pleasant texture, and doesn't pill.

To help you pick the right sunscreen, today I will be delivering you my review of the 10 sunscreens I've been testing out.



1) Krave Beet The Sun
Ingredients: ​Water, ​Butyloctyl Salicylate, ​Dibutyl Adipate, ​Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, ​Alcohol, ​Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, ​Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, ​Ethylhexyl Triazone, ​Glycerin, ​Pentylene Glycol, ​Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate, ​Polysilicone-15, ​Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, ​Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, ​Sodium Acrylate/​Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, ​Acrylates/​C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, ​Tromethamine, ​Methylpropanediol, ​Isohexadecane, ​Caprylyl Glycol, ​Glyceryl Caprylate, ​Polymethylsilsesquioxane, ​1,2-Hexanediol, ​Polysorbate 80, ​Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, ​Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, ​Sorbitan Oleate, ​Ethylhexylglycerin, ​Allantoin, ​Epigallocatechin Gallate, ​Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, ​Butylene Glycol, ​Resveratrol

If you've read or watched my Krave Beauty review, you'll already know how I feel about this sunscreen. My favourite thing about this sunscreen is definitely the texture of it. It is smooth, layer-able and lightweight. As it contains beetroot extract and alcohol, this sunscreen gives off a cooling and refreshing effect which feels good! It also contains moisture attracting ingredients such as glycerin and pentylene glycol to boost the moisture levels in my skin and lastly, I also love that it has a very slight green tint which can help cancel out any mild redness in my skin. Now as I've said, this sunscreen contains a huge amount of alcohol and while Krave has explained their reasons for incorporating alcohol in their formulation (basically it's to help improve the consistency and texture), you can't deny the fact that alcohol is drying and damaging. I get this question all the time, since so many popular sunscreens out there contains a huge amount of alcohol, shouldn't it be okay to use? Maybe it is very necessary to have alcohol in them?

Just think about alcohol as sugar in our food. Lots of delicious and unhealthy food contains a large amount of sugar. Sugar brings out the flavours in a lot of dishes, my favourite brown sugar bubble tea is filled with sugar and it's super delicious, but is it good for my body? No. Yes the food with sugar is way more delicious than bland steamed veggies, but it doesn't change the fact that sugar is unnecessary and unhealthy as hell. Do you really think most businesses care about your health? Whether or not the health of your skin or your body? Obviously they don't because what they care about is profits and alcohol, like sugar, is a cheap ingredient that can easily improve the texture and flavour of a skincare product or a dish. You might not see the negative impacts of a high-sugar diet within a week or two, but we all know that having a long-term high-sugar diet will only cause accumulative damage to your body and that's the same with alcohol.

This sunscreen also contains macadamia oil and you know how I feel about oils. Oils are clogging and if you have acne-prone skin, keep all oils always from your face especially heavy oils like macadamia.

Pros: Lightweight texture and refreshing feel.
Cons: Contains alcohol and oil.

2) Etude House Sunprise Natural Corrector Spf 50+/Pa++++
Ingredients: ​Water, ​Cyclopentasiloxane, ​Zinc Oxide (Ci 77947), ​Hexyl Laurate, ​Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), ​Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, ​Ethylhexyl Salicylate, ​Lauryl PEG-10 Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl Dimethicone, ​Butylene Glycol, ​Dipropylene Glycol, ​C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, ​Niacinamide, ​Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, ​Sodium Chloride, ​Silica, ​PEG-10 Dimethicone, ​Quaternium-18 Bentonite, ​Beeswax, ​Magnesium Stearate, ​Aluminum Hydroxide, ​Stearic Acid, ​Hydrogen Dimethicone, ​Phenoxyethanol, ​Sorbitan Sesquioleate, ​Tilia Platyphyllos Flower Extract, ​Sodium Benzoate, ​Glycerin, ​Tocopheryl Acetate, ​Disodium EDTA, ​Carex Humillis Root Extract, ​Potassium Sorbate, ​Polyhydroxystearic Acid, ​Adenosine, ​Ethylhexyl Palmitate, ​Isopropyl Palmitate, ​Isostearic Acid, ​Lecithin, ​Alcohol, ​Polyglyceryl -3 Polyricinoleate, ​Malpighia Punicifolia (Acerola) Fruit Extract, ​Triethoxycaprylylsilane, ​Maltodextrin, ​Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, ​Citric Acid, ​Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, ​Fragrance, ​Ci 77491, ​Ci 77492, ​Ci 77499

Is this not the longest ingredient list ever...? I have a love and hate relationship with this sunscreen. Overall, I would say that the ingredients are fairly safe and good considering how the first couple of ingredients are good ingredients that provides sun protection, followed by a good amount of humectants for hydration. There is alcohol in this, but seeing how the alcohol is towards the end, you're probably only getting a few drops of it in the tube, moreover you're not gonna put the entire tube on your face right? Same goes for the fragrance and colouring at the end of the list.

So while I do like this sunscreen because of it's brightening effects and the fact that it's one of the few sunscreens in the sunprise collection that has decent ingredients, I'm also not that fond of the texture as it is rather thick making it difficult to blend out. And as you know, I love being generous when it comes to my sunscreen application but being generous with this product just means looking like a pale ghost.

Pros: Brightens and evens out skin tone.
Cons: Contains alcohol and fragrance, thick consistency making it difficult to blend.

3) Cosrx Aloe Soothing Sun Cream
Ingredients: ​Water, ​Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, ​Glycerin, ​Propylene Glycol, ​Cyclopentasiloxane, ​Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, ​Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, ​Dicaprylyl Carbonate, ​Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate, ​Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, ​Alcohol, ​Dimethicone, ​Glyceryl Stearate, ​Butylene Glycol, ​Titanium Dioxide, ​C14-22 Alcohols, ​Polymethyl Methacrylate, ​Cetearyl Alcohol, ​Aloe Arborescens Leaf Extract, ​Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, ​Tocopheryl Acetate, ​Peg-100 Stearate, ​Silica, ​C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, ​Dimethicone/​Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, ​Aluminum Hydroxide, ​Stearic Acid, ​Caprylyl Glycol, ​Acrylates/​C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, ​Carbomer, ​Xanthan Gum, ​Triethanolamine, ​Sodium Hydroxide, ​Fragrance, ​Phenoxyethanol, ​Disodium Edta

Because I have acne, my skin tends to feel irritated at times which was why I was attracted to this sunscreen that claims to have aloe vera in it which can provide soothing effects to irritated skin. Taking a look at the ingredients, it has glycerin as its third ingredient which is a good start, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, ​and Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid are all ingredients that provides sun protection benefits which is good... And then... We have alcohol. You should know by now that alcohol is drying and it irritates our skin, so it's ironic how this sunscreen is supposed to be "soothing" because it has "aloe" but the aloe, Aloe Arborescens Leaf Extract, and soothing ingredient Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, comes after the irritating alcohol.

Pros: Affordable and lightweight texture
Cons: Alcohol!

4) Bioderma Photoderm SPOT SPF50+
​Ingredients: Aqua/​Water/​Eau, ​Dicaprylyl Carbonate, ​Octocrylene, ​Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Nano), ​Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, ​Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, ​Cyclopentasiloxane, ​Dipropylene Glycol, ​C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate, ​Glyceryl Stearate, ​Peg-100 Stearate, ​Ectoin, ​Fructooligosaccharides, ​Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, ​C20-22 Alcohols, ​Decyl Glucoside, ​Cyclohexasiloxane, ​Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/​Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, ​Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, ​Glycyrrhetinic Acid, ​Xanthan Gum, ​Propylene Glycol, ​Citric Acid, ​Pentylene Glycol, ​Caprylic/​Capric Triglyceride, ​Disodium Edta, ​Sodium Hydroxide, ​Phenoxyethanol, ​Chlorphenesin

After a few problematic and disappointing sunscreens, I thought this would be the perfect time to finally slot in a less problematic sunscreen. In terms of the ingredients, this sunscreen 100% unproblematic especially for people with acne prone skin, because it doesn't contain any drying alcohols, essential oils and of course, oils. I also love how this sunscreen is made specifically to shield and protect damaged skin and scars because if you want your acne marks to heal and fade away quicker, you really need to ensure that it is receiving sufficient protection from the UV rays. This was my go-to sunscreen for a couple of weeks due to the safe ingredients but what bothered me was how it pills as the day goes by. This means that throughout the day, the product will form little white chunks on my skin. Even though this can be solved if you put just a super thin layer of sunscreen, I tend to ensure my skin is well-protected with sufficient product.

Pros: Safe ingredients for sensitive and oily skin.
Cons: Pills...

5) Supergoop Unseen Sunscreen SPF 40 
Ingredients: ​Avobenzone (3%), ​Homosalate (8%), ​Octinoxate (4.5%), ​Octisalate (5%)
Inactive Ingredients: ​Isododecane, ​Dimethicone Crosspolymer, ​Dimethicone/​Bis-Isobutyl Ppg-20 Crosspolymer, ​Isohexadecane, ​Dicaprylyl Carbonate, ​Meadowfoam Estolide, ​Polyester-8, ​Polymethylsilsesquioxane, ​Caprylic/​Capric Triglyceride, ​Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, ​Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, ​Jojoba Esters, ​Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, ​Mannitol, ​Olibanum, ​Lecithin, ​Microcrystalline Cellulose, ​Diatomaceous Earth, ​Zinc Sulfate, ​Silica, ​Tocopherol

Speaking of the texture of sunscreens, this next sunscreen is probably the best one you can get if you're someone to puts makeup on everyday. This sunscreen is called unseen sunscreen because it doesn't have any colour to it, and it feels exactly like a primer in a sense that it smooths out uneven texture, and even mattifies your skin. This product is also has safe ingredients even though I know some people are not fond of silicone, silicone is actually not harmful for your skin if you read up about it. Moreover, the silicone in this product is the second last ingredient so it really isn't justifiable to overlook all its good points just because of silicone.

Pros: No white cast, safe ingredients and works exactly like a primer (2-in-1)!
Cons: Expensive! Or unless you hate the texture of primers. 

6) Purito Comfy Water Sunblock
​Ingredients: Water, ​Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, ​Butylene Glycol, ​Glycerin, ​Dipropylene Glycol, ​Zinc Oxide, ​Silica, ​Niacinamide, ​1,2-Hexanediol, ​Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, ​Titanium Dioxide, ​Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, ​Cetearyl Olivate, ​Sorbitan Olivate, ​Stearic Acid, ​Madecassoside, ​Asiaticoside, ​Madecassic Acid, ​Asiatic Acid, ​Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, ​Lauroyl Lysine, ​Disodium EDTA, ​Acrylates/​C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, ​Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, ​Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, ​Adenosine, ​Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/​Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

This product was sent to me to review and I was very excited since I love the brand Purito. I do like how this sunscreen contains a very good amount of hydrating ingredients such as butylene glycol, glycerin, niacinamide and madecassoside which is great for people with dry skin. It's good to know that even your sunscreen is boosting your moisture levels. The texture of this product is very lightweight and comfortable, but unfortunately, straight up you can see that this product contains 3 types of perfuming ingredient a.k.a essential oils. Like I said, K-beauty loves essential oils so it's not surprising to see essential oils in this sunscreen.

Pros: Hydrating, suitable for dry skin.
Cons: Contains a ton of essential oils/fragrance. 

7) Purito Centella Green Level Safe Sun SPF 50++ PA+++
​Ingredients: Water, ​Butylene Glycol, ​Glycerin, ​Dicaprylyl Carbonate, ​Dibutyl Adipate, ​Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, ​Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, ​1,2-Hexanediol, ​Niacinamide, ​Ethylhexyl Triazone, ​Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, ​Silica, ​Cetearyl Olivate, ​Cetearyl Alcohol, ​Centella Asiatica Extract, ​Hyaluronic Acid, ​Tocopherol, ​Sorbitan Olivate, ​Glyceryl Stearate SE, ​Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, ​Sorbitan Stearate, ​Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, ​Disodium EDTA, ​Adenosine, ​Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, ​Caprylyl Glycol, ​Ethylhexylglycerin

I was also sent this sunscreen, so the first ingredient that caught my attention is tocopherol, this is vitamin E which is an antioxidant, which provides sun protection. At the same time, this also acts as an emollient so it helps smooth out the texture of your skin while providing occlusive properties. This also contains centella asiatica which has anti-inflammatory benefits hence it aids in the healing of the skin, and then it also contains hyaluronic acid, glycerin, butylene glycol, niacinamide, to attract moisture.

I actually love this sunscreen. The texture is so smooth and silky, non-tacky at all, and it also feels cooling on my skin. Since this contains lavender oil, it does smell like heaven. Unfortunately, good-smelling stuff are usually bad for our skin, i.e. essential oils. Therefore, I still use this sunscreen because I'm a rebel, but only on weekends when I head to the gym in the mornings and need sun protection for a few hours before I shower.

Pros: Hydrating, smells good and has a pleasant texture. Also contains cica for healing and calming.
Cons: Contains essential oils.

8) Some By Mi True Cica Mineral 100 Calming Sunscreen
​Ingredients: Water, ​Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, ​Butylene Glycol, ​Glycerin, ​Dipropylene Glycol, ​Zinc Oxide, ​Silica, ​1,2-Hexanediol, ​Niacinamide, ​Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, ​Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Water, ​Titanium Dioxide, ​Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, ​Cetearyl Olivate, ​Sorbitan Olivate, ​Stearic Acid, ​Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, ​Lauroyl Lysine, ​Disodium EDTA, ​Acrylates/​C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, ​Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, ​Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, ​Adenosine, ​Centella Asiatica Extract, ​Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, ​Caprylyl Glycol, ​Madecassoside, ​Asiaticoside, ​Asiatic Acid, ​Madecassic Acid

This is another sunscreen that was sent to me from Some By Mi, actually a long time ago now, before I even went to Korea. So if you simply look at the name of this product, it's obvious that the highlight of this sunscreen is supposed to be centella asiatica a.k.a cica. But if you look at the ingredients, centella asiatica is no where to be found until the last 7th ingredient. The first impression this sunscreen gave me was that it smells totally like tea tea so that is probably because this does contains both tea tree leaf water and also tea tree oil, yes, again, essential oil. Other than that there is also orange peel oil and lavender oil which are both fragrance and the funny thing is you get more fragrance when the centella asiatica which also means you get more irritating than calming. This does contains similar humectants as the previous two sunscreens but honestly I didn't enjoy using this sunscreen. I used it for approximately 2 weeks and I didn't even bring it along with me to Korea.

I think at that point, my skin was actually very sensitive and irritated as I was using the Drunk Elephant T.L.C Glycolic Night Serum. So using this sunscreen really made the irritations worse. My skin was itchy, and it definitely did not sit well or blend in well with the rest of my skincare products too. I also didn't like how strong the tea tree scent is.

Pros: Probably none.
Cons: Contains essential oils and smells just like tea tree.

9) Avene Fluid Fragrance-Free SPF 50+
Ingredients: ​Avene Thermal Spring Water (Avene Aqua), ​C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, ​Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol [Nano], ​Water (Aqua), ​Diisopropyl Adipate, ​Isodecyl Neopentanoate, ​Silica, ​Dicaprylyl Carbonate, ​Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, ​Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, ​Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, ​Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, ​Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, ​Decyl Glucoside, ​1,2-Hexanediol, ​C10-18 Triglycerides, ​Vp/​Eicosene Copolymer, ​Acrylates/​C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, ​Benzoic Acid, ​Butylene Glycol, ​Caprylic/​Capric Triglyceride, ​Disodium EDTA, ​Glyceryl Behenate, ​Glyceryl Dibehenate, ​Glyceryl Stearate, ​Oxothiazolidine, ​PEG-100 Stearate, ​Propylene Glycol, ​Sodium Benzoate, ​Tocopherol, ​Tocopheryl Glucoside, ​Tribehenin, ​Xanthan Gum

The last sunscreen is my current go-to one. To keep things short and sweet, this sunscreen doesn't contain any harmful or drying ingredients. Even though as compared to the Korean beauty sunscreens, this do seem like it's lacking in the hydrating department, I think it's important to remember that this isn't a moisturizer. This is a sunscreen, and what matters more is that it does it's job as a sunscreen without damaging your skin. This product is also made to provide very high protection for damaged skin and acne scars, so again it is perfect for me because I do have a bunch of acne scars that really appreciate a good shield. On top of all that good stuff, since this is in a fluid texture, it is very suitable for people with oily skin who doesn't like thick and heavy sun creams. So yes, texture is perfect, sits well under makeup as well as with the rest of my skincare products! Also love love love how this comes with a pump!

Pros: Provides high protection, safe ingredients and lightweight texture.
Cons: It's quite expensive if you want to compare it to K-beauty.

10) Bioderma Photoderm MAX SPF50+
​Ingredients: Aqua/​Water/​Eau, ​Dicaprylyl Carbonate, ​Octocrylene, ​Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol [Nano], ​Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, ​Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, ​Cyclopentasiloxane, ​C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate, ​Glyceryl Stearate, ​PEG-100 Stearate, ​Ectoin, ​Xylitol, ​Rhamnose, ​Fructooligosaccharides, ​Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, ​C20-22 Alcohols, ​Decyl Glucoside, ​Cyclohexasiloxane, ​Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/​Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, ​Pentylene Glycol, ​Xanthan Gum, ​Propylene Glycol, ​Citric Acid, ​Caprylic/​Capric Triglyceride, ​Sodium Hydroxide, ​Disodium EDTA, ​Phenoxyethanol, ​Chlorphenesin

The final sunscreen is another one from one of my favourite brands, Bioderma. This one also provides very high protection which is good if you have damaged skin, scars and hyperpigmentation. In comparison to the Bioderma Photoderm SPOT, this one is formulated to be suitable for people with sensitive skin. That said, this has very safe ingredients with no drying alcohols, essential oils, fragrance, oils, and if you're concerned, this doesn't contain silicones. In terms of the consistency, this is more watery and pills lesser than the Bioderma Photoderm SPOT. Similar to it though, you can solve the pilling issue by rationing the amount of product you put on your face.

Pros: Safe ingredients, suitable for people with sensitive, oily, normal.. All skin types basically.
Cons: Pills when applied too much. 

And there you have it! My review and thoughts on 10 sunscreens. My favourite ones are definitely the ones from Bioderma and Avene and as mentioned, I sneakily still use the Purito Centella Green Level Safe Sunscreen during the weekends morning. If I have to pick one that I highly recommend, it will definitely be the one from Avene. I love the packaging of it, the texture of it, and not to mention it's safe for all skin types. Before I go, if you haven't check out my review of 10 cleansers, go ahead and have a read because, being the very first step to your skincare routine, your cleanser can seriously make, or break your entire routine. Fact.

Labels: beauty, face, health, korean, review, skincare, skincare talk, tips

Skincare Talk: The Relationship Between Your Mental Well-being and Your Skin

Saturday, 27 July 2019 at July 27, 2019

Clear skin is a combination of good skincare, a balanced diet, and a healthy mindset. 

Most beauty gurus often touch on skincare and diet, but many miss out mental wellness which in my opinion, mental health actually plays a bigger role when pursuing clear skin, than diet (while skincare comes first, of course).


I've talked about this a couple of times on my platforms, but in case you are still unaware, acne depression is a thing. Go on to r/acne, every single day there are at least a couple of people talking about their struggles with acne depression and how it affects their daily life. I was one of those people. I was one of the many people in this world who struggled with life, because of acne, because of my skin, because of my insecurities. I didn't even have severe acne but it's actually proven that it doesn't matter how severe your acne is. There are people who cancel plans because of one pimple and that is how you know that acne is running your life.

Labels: bodycare, face, lifestyle, skincare, skincare talk, stress relief, tips

Skincare Talk: Your guide to BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids)

Monday, 22 July 2019 at July 22, 2019

Previously on Skincare Talk, I talked about AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) which is one of the most common and popular chemical exfoliant in the market. At the end of that post, I noted that even though AHA is an amazing acid to include in your skincare routine, I find that there are limitations to what it can do to help my acne-prone, oily skin.

While AHA is awesome for eliminating the build up of dead skin cells on the surface of your skin to prevent potential clogging, pimples are usually formed below the surface of the skin and when you can finally see the pimple, it usually just means that it's too late, i.e, you've got a pimple on your face now. You can speed up the recovery process of acne with the help of AHA, but people with acne-prone skin, we don't want that. We don't want to see pimples on our skin, what we want is to prevent them, and that's where my favourite chemical exfoliant comes in, BHA!

BHA, Beta Hydroxy Acids, is another type of chemical exfoliant and the main difference between AHA and BHA is the fact that while AHA is water soluble, BHA is oil soluble. This one difference makes a huge difference as it means that BHA is able to penetrate deeper into our skin to get to the oils and dead skin cells which are clogging our pores, the start, the beginning, of a pimple, the part where AHA can't get to.

There are many types of AHA, but when it comes to BHA, there's only one you'd need to know, and that is Salicylic Acid. This could be the reason why it is "less common" in skincare products, in a sense that while I can easily get my hands on decent products containing AHA, it does take a bit more effort to find a good BHA product. That said, I have a couple of holy grail BHA products which I will share with you in this blog post. Other than Salicylic Acid, you'd sometimes also see Betaine Salicylate in the ingredient list of BHA products. In simple terms, Betaine Salicylate is simply another form of BHA, but as compared to Salicylic Acid, there are not many conclusive studies regarding the effectiveness of Betaine Salicylate.

1. Concentration % and pH level 

When it comes to any kind of active ingredients, AHA, BHA, Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid, etc, etc, etc, it is crucial to know the percentage you are getting in your skin product because if the percentage is too low, it probably won't give you any skin benefits at all. For example, at 2%, lactic acid can only work as a humectant at best, so if you purchase a product that has 2% of lactic acid thinking that you can get some kind of chemical exfoliation from it... You can't. Also, depending on your skin's tolerance level, people with sensitive skin might get a chemical burn if they use a product that is too high in concentration for them. When it comes to Salicylic Acid, the recommended concentration is 2% as any lesser would not be effective, and when it comes to Betaine Salicylate, a concentration of at least 4% is needed.

The effectiveness of BHA is dependent on the product's pH level so it is also important to take note that it should be around pH 3 - 4.

Incorporating acids into your routine might sound taunting, now that I've mentioned chemical burns, but there actually isn't anything to be worried about if you start slow and listen to what your skin is telling you. Burning sensation? Wash it off. Feeling dry, itchy, and sensitive after? Skin looking red and inflamed? Stop using it for the time being and focus on building your hydration routine. If your skin shows you signs of irritations, any signs of irritations, listen to it and take a step back from your acid for a day or two. Your skin should always feel comfortable. Otherwise, restoring your skin's barrier and health is going to take you weeks and speaking from experience, it sucks.

2. You need to hydrate and use sunscreen

Like I mentioned in my guide on AHA, having a proper hydration routine and having a habit of wearing sunscreen every single day are the essentials and basic steps of skin care. Therefore, if you can't even get these basic steps right, don't bother advancing into chemical exfoliants because like AHA, if you're gonna use BHA without a proper hydrating routine or sunscreen, you are going to dry out your skin, dehydrate it, destroy your skin's protective barrier, and make it even more prone to sun damages.
Now that we've gotten that out of the way, let's take a look at my favourite BHA products!


First up, the La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo (+). I've been using this stuff since the end of 2017 and it was the first time I was actually using BHA in my routine... Unknowingly. At that point, I wasn't as invested into skincare as I thought I was, and so it didn't matter to me what was actually in the La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo (+), I just thought the formula was god-sent, a magic formula that gave me super clear skin. It was only this year when I found out that it wasn't magic, it was salicylic acid, along with the high concentration of niacinamide and zinc. Although for this product I'd argue that it's most likely the niacinamide and zinc that contributed to my clear skin, since salicylic acid is literally the last 3rd ingredient, I'm still positive that it helped my then, mild acne condition. A little review of this product, the texture is extremely lightweight and a little gel-liked. It blends well with other products without pilling and every time I use it, I only use a pea-sized amount on all my troubled areas which is my jawline and T-zone.

I stopped using this product at the end of 2018 because foolishly, I thought that my skin was acne-proof after having clear skin for a year, and guess what? The acne came back, stronger than ever. When I finally decided to go back to this product, it no longer worked for my skin. It's not that salicylic acid, niacinamide and zinc stopped working, it's just that the concentration wasn't enough for my now, stubborn, moderate acne. Hence, I had to find a stronger product which brings me to the Paula's Choice Clear Extra Strength Anti-Redness Exfoliating Solution.

This product is once again god-sent and the answers to all my woes! The original plan was to purchase the Paula's Choice Clear Regular Strength Anti-Redness Exfoliating Solution, but as it was out of stock, I decided to try the extra strength version of it. According to Paula's Choice, the only difference is that the extra strength version is formulated so it is able to penetrate even deeper into our pores. I was very cautious when it comes to using this product, although it says on the bottle to use it twice a day after cleansing, I started only using this at night. There was a burning sensation, but it did went away within a minute and my skin did not feel any other irritations after I have properly moisturized my skin. I love how the formula has a slight oily, silky feeling to it (even though it doesn't contain any oil) as this really makes it easy to spread the product all over my skin so I can ensure that I don't miss out any areas. The formula also contains humectants such as pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin and sodium hyaluronate to support your skin's barrier as well as vitamin B5 (panthenol) which supports healing.

The final product is The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution. This is a similar product to the one from Paula's Choice and it is also a few dollars cheaper. As compared to the one from Paula's Choice, this formula is much more straight-forward without many humectants or soothing ingredients. So if you have sensitive or dehydrated skin that is easily irritated, I will definitely recommend you to spend a few more bucks for Paula's Choice.

In conclusion, if you're constantly trying to clear up your skin with AHA or benzoyl peroxide or any  useless drying spot treatments, but notice that you're still getting reoccurring breakouts, especially if your acne is hormonal and there is little you can do to avoid the hormones from fluctuating... You need BHA in your life. Period. Because BHA is the stuff that prevents acne from even coming up to the surface of your skin, so regardless of whatever is causing your clogged pores at the deep layers of your skin, be it hormones or diet, BHA will unclog that clogged pore and you'll never see it come up to the surface of your skin because everything will already be taken care of.

Labels: beauty, face, skincare, skincare talk, tips

Skincare Talk: MASSIVE CLEANSER REVIEW!

Wednesday, 17 July 2019 at July 17, 2019

Fact: Your cleanser can make or break your skincare routine!

In today's episode of Skincare Talk, I will be sharing with you my review of 10 cleansers which I've been testing out for the past 6 months. One of the key similarities between all 10 cleansers is that they all have a low pH because that is the minimum requirement I need from my cleanser. Our skins' natural pH level is acidic as we have a protector barrier called the acid mantle. This barrier protects our skin from external irritants, like bacteria, pollution, heat, etc which is why once your acid mantle is being destroyed, you can start getting skin diseases like eczema, rosacea, acne, and you might find yourself breaking out even more and healing way slower than you should. When your skins' pH level is right, it also makes it ready to absorb all the other benefits from the rest of the products in your routine! So without further ado, let's take a look at these 10 low pH cleansers.



Ingredients: Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Coco-Glucoside, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate, Propanediol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Glycolipids, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Lauryl Glucoside, Cucumis Melo Cantalupensis Fruit Extract, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Chloride, Polylysine

My heart aches a little whenever I talk about this cleanser, this feels like my first love. I don't have a recent photo of it since I emptied it months ago (yes the photo is photoshopped) and I thought it was creepy to be keeping the empty bottle just because I can't deal with the fact that it's gone, so a few weeks ago I just threw it out. I wasn't into it from the very beginning, but as I was finishing it, I realised how much I effin' love this cleanser! The texture and consistency is unlike any other, it doesn't foam at all no matter how vigorously you rub your palms together and it just stays as a gooey gel texture - which is the reason why I didn't love it initially. It just feels so odd as the only thing that changes is the colour. Regardless, I got used to the texture and the best part is I noticed how this leaves my skin feeling clean but at the same time, doesn't make me wanna run for my moisturizer. This is a clear, positive sign that a cleanser is perfect for my skin. As this cleanser is from Drunk Elephant, you can expect no drying alcohols, no fragrance, no essential oils, no silicone, all that crap. If it wasn't for the price tag, you bet I will be using this again. Unfortunately, $46 for a cleanser... It's definitely overpriced.

Pros: Does the best job at cleansing while keeping my skin comfortable.
Cons: $46 man.

Read my Drunk Elephant review here.

2. Krave Matcha Hemp Hydrating Cleanser


Ingredients: Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Water, Glycerin, Coco-Betaine, Methyl Gluceth-10, Ethoxydiglycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Sodium Chloride, Butoxydiglycol, Diglycerin, Glycereth-26, Xanthan Gum, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder, Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Diethoxydiglycol, Coco-Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Decyl Glucoside, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Butylene Glycol, Octanediol, Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium PCA, Disodium EDTA

My heart aches when I have to talk about the Krave Matcha Hemp Hydrating Cleanser... Because I hate it and yet I bought two of it. I bought this when I was in Seoul since it was highly raved, in fact, everything from Krave is highly raved, so I really did not expect to dislike this. The main ingredients in this cleanser is marketed to be 40% of matcha which is the "Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder" in the list, hemp seed oil, vitamin B5, and sodium PCA. I don't understand why vitamin B5 and sodium PCA should be mentioned since it's literally the last few ingredients, i.e. you're probably only getting a tiny drop of these ingredients which will not be capable of doing anything beneficial to your skin. Either way, I really disliked the texture of this cleanser. It feels oily and grainy. While it did make my skin feel moisturized even after cleansing, my skin did not feel clean, possibly due to the lack of actual cleansing ingredients. As acne-prone, I didn't like how it contains sweet almond oil and hemp seed oil... Both didn't do anything for me, and probably clogged my pores which was why I was breaking out. Honestly, I find it meaningless to create such a hydrating cleanser. While the oils might keep your skin feeling hydrated and fool you into thinking that it's not stripping away your moisture barrier hence it's a wonderful cleanser, it could also possibly leave a film on your skin since both the sweet almond oil and hemp seed oil are occlusive, meaning they tend to sit on top of your skin, giving you that moisturized feeling while also blocking out every other thing you will be applying to your skin, AHA especially, which is not oil soluble. Yikes, what a waste of product.

Pros: None, sorry Liah!
Cons: Unpleasant texture and contains too much oils i.e. not suitable for acne-prone skin.

Read my Krave Beauty review here.

3. CosRx Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser 


Ingredients: Water, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Polysorbate 20, Styrax Japonicus Branch/​Fruit/​Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Saccharomyces Ferment, Cryptomeria Japonica Leaf Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Evening Primrose Flower Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Tea Tree Leaf Oil, Allantoin, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Betaine Salicylate, Citric Acid, Ethyl Hexanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sodium Benzoate, Disodium Edta

Finally a product that doesn't break my heart... Or bank. At my wit's ends, I decided to watch my old skincare videos because I used to have clear skin. I found a video where I talked about the best K-beauty products for breakouts and this product was one of the cleansers I recommended back then! Since I bought 2 of these in Seoul, immediately, I replaced the Krave cleanser with this one. The texture of this is awesome, it's gel, but it still foams slightly, enough for you to work it around your face gently without tugging at your skin. Going through the ingredients, the first few ingredients are cleansing ingredients so it cleanses well, it also contains a couple of hydrating humectants to help retain moisture in your skin, and it also contains Betaine Salicylate which is a form of BHA. As compared to AHA, I find that BHA works better for acne-prone skin, but BHA needs to be on your face for awhile for it to penetrate into your skin, so I'm skeptical about its ability to perform in a cleanser. Now for the problematic bit, this contains tea tree oil which is a well-known essential oil that has anti-bacterial properties, it is always marketed to be an oil that is good for treating acne, but there actually hasn't been any scientific research to prove this. Moreover, essential oils will sensitize your skin as they are drying, so, no thanks! There are some articles stating that Butylene Glycol is toxic because it is derived from petroleum, but studies also shows that Butylene Glycol is the safest glycols and it does not pose any harm to our body, even when consumed. In terms of how my skin reacted to this cleanser, I would say that it really depends on how it's feeling. If it's irritated and sensitive, this cleanser is too drying for my skin. But when it's normal (i.e. non-sensitive), it doesn't give me that tight feeling. It doesn't break me out, in fact I think my skin do likes it to a certain extent. If you have normal skin, I think this is worth trying for the price tag, but if you have sensitive skin... Maybe save your money for something else (don't worry, I've got better cleansers in this list).

Pros: Affordable, does a great job at cleansing.
Cons: Can be drying for some and it contains an essential oil (tea tree).

4. La Roche-Posay Purifying Foaming Gel Cleanser


Ingredients: Aqua /​ Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Peg-8, Coco-Betaine, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Peg-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Zinc, Pca, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum /​ Fragrance

This is a cleanser I got, probably back in March 2019. La Roche-Posay is one of my favourite skincare brands because the La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo (+) used to be one of my holy grail product (psst, if you have very mild acne, even hormonal acne, this will do wonders!). I found out that this cleanser is highly raved and has helped many people clear and control their acne, therefore I decided to give it a shot. This contains Sodium Laureth Sulfate which is SLES and not to be confused with Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS). SLES is a much more gentle surfactant and will not irritate or sensitize your skin. Although you will not be able to get that luxurious foam with SLES, at least it still foams, if you like foamy cleansers that is. The only other ingredient that got my attention is zinc. Zinc is a mineral that is known to support our skin, it has anti-inflammatory properties and it can also aid in the regulation of sebum production. Thus, a popular ingredient for treating acne. Other than that... There isn't anything else in this cleanser that I find extraordinary. I don't think it has done anything to improve my skin to be honest, if anything, everything just remained the same. Break outs still occurred, so even though I've had this cleanser for months, I still have not finished using it.

Pros: None that I can think of.
Cons: Just did not work for my skin.

5. CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser for Normal and Oily Skin 


Ingredients: Purified Water, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Glycerin, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Peg-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, Peg-6 Caprylic/​Capric Glycerides, Niacinamide, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Ceramide 3, Ceramide 6-Ii, Ceramide 1, Hyaluronic Acid, Cholesterol, Sodium Chloride, Phytosphingosine, Citric Acid, Edetate Disodium, Dihydrate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum

If you haven't heard of it (since I don't believe this is available at our local pharmacies), CeraVe is a brand that is similar to Cetaphil and Aveeno,... Brands that claim to be suitable for sensitive and dry skin basically and they all come in the most basic looking packaging. I was keen to try this since I was trying to restore my skin's barrier and the brand CeraVe just kept popping out as a recommended candidate. Spoiler, this is a really good gentle cleanser. For starters, this cleanser has a really good amount of hydrating and beneficial ingredients such as glycerin, niacinamide, 3 types of ceramides, and hyaluronic acid. It contains "Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate" which looks like "SLS", but it isn't what you think it is because the harmful "SLS" that everyone hates, stands for "Sodium Lauryl Sulfate", and not this. This is unrelated, but I feel the need to say that the Cetaphil's Gentle Cleanser has Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, yikes. Although it isn't stated on the packaging, this cleanser also has an ideal pH level of 5.5. I love that it comes with a pump and I got mine from iHerb which only cost me around $12! If I have to pick one thing I hate about this cleanser, it's probably the consistency. It's gel and it foams when in contact with water, but once it dries i.e, when the water evaporates from your face while you are in the midst of cleansing, it dries along with it and turns back into a sticky gel which makes it difficult to continue making smooth circular motions around your face.

Pros: Safe for your skin's barrier (hydrating and has a good pH level).
Cons: Dries up too quickly while cleansing.

6. Heimish pH 5.5 All Clean Green Foam Cleanser 


Ingredients: Water, Potassium Laureth Phosphate, Glycerin, Lauryl Hydroxysultaine, Acrylates/​C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Potassium Cocoyl Glutamate, Citric Acid, Coco-Glucoside, Sodium Chloride, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Tromethamine, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Disodium Edta

I picked this up when I was in Seoul when I saw it for the very first time. I'm surprised I haven't heard much rave about this product, but I decided to get 2 of it. The reasons are simple. 1st, it's a pH 5.5 cleanser, making it safe for your acid mantle (skin barrier). 2nd, this contains glycerin, a well-loved humectant that is also the main ingredient in my beloved Drunk Elephant cleanser. 3rd, no signs of drying ingredients such as SLS, drying alcohols and essential oil (yes!!!). And lastly, no signs of oils! YESSSSS! I was really internally screaming with joy when I scanned through the ingredient list. This is a very basic cleanser which only contains the minimum requirement to make it a gentle and effective cleanser. It contains centella asiatica which has soothing and healing benefits, but it also contains witch hazel which can be drying. If you're looking for a basic foamy cleanser, this will be your best bet. But if you're looking for a cleanser that will help improve your skin, or if you have dry and dehydrated skin, you're better off with something else.

Pros: Basic, simple and affordable.
Cons: Not suitable for very dry and dehydrated skin, or people with severe acne. 

7. Purito Barrier Defence pH Cleanser 


Ingredients: Water, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract, Allantoin, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Royal Jelly Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA

I've worked with Purito before and have genuinely loved their skincare products. Therefore, when a viewer commented on one of my skincare review recommending me to try out their Barrier Defense Cleanser, I immediately approached them to see if they could kindly send me one. The reason why I was so keen to try it was because at that time, I was using the Cosrx Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser which the viewer mentioned that it was too drying for her. She stated that the Purito Barrier Defense Cleanser worked better for her and did not dry out her skin so I thought perhaps this would be a better alternative for me as well. This cleanser has a good balance of cleansing agents, and humectants, along with tea tree oil and centella asiatica which are both anti-acne ingredients. Yes... I'm not a big fan of tea tree oil, but I liked the Cosrx Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser which has tea tree oil so I made a judgement call. Other than that, I would also like to highlight that in comparison with the Cosrx cleanser, this one contains royal jelly extract which is probably the reason why it doesn't feel drying.

Pros: Great cleansing ability and protects our skin's barrier.
Cons: Contains an essential oil (tea tree). 

8. Hada Labo Gokujyun Super Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Foaming Cleanser 


Ingredients: Water, Peg-8, Butylene Glycol, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Cocamide Dea, Peg-80 Sorbitan Laurate, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Sodium Taurine Cocoyl Methyltaurate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Petrolatum, Citric Acid, Polyquaternium-7, Disodium Edta, Bht, Methylparaben

Probably my favourite cleanser! I discovered this cleanser when my Sister asked me to help her check if the ingredients are safe and suitable for her dry, ezcema-prone skin. Looking through the ingredients, I noticed how this contains a handful of moisturizing humectants (glycerin, sorbitol, different forms of hyaluronic acids), zero fragrance, zero SLS, zero drying alcohols, and zero oils. Immediately, I told her, hey this is a really good cleanser! The ingredients are pretty basic which is good if you want to start afresh with a simple, basic routine because as you can see from the list, everything is either a cleansing ingredient, or a humectant, or an occlusive, or a preservative/stabilizer, and that's it. No weird exotic flower extract or oil, whatsoever. It also contains petrolatum which is basically vaseline. Vaseline is an occlusive which can help prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) - basically it forms a layer on top of your skin to help prevent moisture loss by slowing down evaporation. At the same time, it can also serve as a protective barrier from external irritants. This pumps out immediately as a foam which I love since it was able to glide on smoothly on my skin. I find this especially soothing for areas where I have breakouts. Due to it's hydrating formula, it doesn't leave my skin feeling tight or dry after cleansing, and my skin just feels fresh and comfortable. This retails at only $15 and you can also purchase refill packs at a cheaper price so you don't have to waste the bottle.

Pros: Affordable, gentle, hydrating and effective
Cons: None!

9. Bioderma Sebium Purifying Foaming Gel Cleanser



Ingredients: Aqua/​Water/​Eau, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Methylpropanediol, Disodium EDTA, Mannitol, Xylitol, Rhamnose, Fructooligosaccharides, Zinc Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate, Lactic Acid, Laureth-2, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Chloride, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Fragrance (Parfum)

This cleanser is on the pricier side which was why it did took me ages to get it, but it's still cheaper than the Drunk Elephant Beste No.9 Jelly Cleanser so that comforts me a little. This cleanser, once again contains Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), which as mentioned, is a much gentler surfactant as compared to SLS. The first couple of ingredients are cleansing ingredients, followed by a handful of humectants which will be good for retaining moisture while you cleanse your skin. It also contains zinc sulfate, a chemical compound of zinc and sulfuric acid. I know zinc and sulfur are two very popular ingredients that are known for treating acne, but I'm not too sure about zinc sulfate. If you've read my guide on AHAs, you might be happy to spot lactic acid in there. Unfortunately, since this is a cleanser, and lactic acid isn't one of its main ingredients, it's only job here is to act as a humectant and so you won't be getting any kinds of exfoliation here.

The texture of this cleanser is similar to the La Roche-Posay Purifying Foaming Gel Cleanser, most likely due to the existence of SLES, but I would say that this has a lighter texture - sort of like a diluted gel and I do like the texture of this a lot more. After cleansing, it doesn't leave my skin feeling tight at all despite always taking a whole 2 minutes to wash my face which is awesome! One thing that bothers me though is the smell. It smells like hospitals... Or a science lab.

Pros: Provides gentle cleansing and is a makeup remover too (2-in-1!)
Cons: Smells weird.

10. CosRx Low pH First Cleansing Milk Gel 



​Ingredients: Water, ​Cyclopentasiloxane, ​Dimethicone, ​Dipropylene Glycol, ​Olive Oil Peg-7 Esters, ​Peg-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, ​1,2-Hexanediol, ​Peg-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, ​Arginine, ​Carbomer, ​Caprylyl Glycol, ​Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, ​Acrylates/​C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, ​Allantoin, ​Hydroxyethylcellulose, ​Butylene Glycol, ​Cyclomethicone, ​Disodium Edta, ​Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract, ​Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract

This is the only cleanser in the list that I've not yet try... And will probably never try. I bought this when I was in Seoul as I was attracted to the fact that I've never seen it around before and of course the "Low pH" on the packaging. Sometimes all you need is to look at the ingredient list to determine if a product will do any good for your skin or not. First up, this has a pretty big quantity of olive oil in it. Why would you want olive oil on your face? Olive oil is clogging. Period. Even the ingredients before the olive oil are emollients, a.k.a ingredients that help lock in moisture. I mean, this is a cleanser, where are the ingredients that will help cleanse my skin? I didn't buy a cleanser to get emollients... Then right smack in the middle of the list, there's bergamot fruit oil which is basically fragrance that will sensitize your skin. Someone actually commented on my Korea Beauty Haul video telling me that this product should be used as a makeup remover but I won't even use this as a makeup remover. It just sounds like a recipe for disaster in a tube.

Pros: None.
Cons: Bad formulation.

So those are all the cleansers I've tested, I still use majority of them in rotation depending on how my skin is feeling, but of course I've completely stopped using those that I did not like. Finally, while you may use this blog post as a guide, please note that everyone's skin is different, and lifestyle plays an important role in skin care too (eg. if you workout often or if your job requires you to stay under the sun for long hours, etc). If you have a favourite cleanser, let me know! I'd love to hear about it.

Labels: beauty, face, korean, review, skincare, skincare talk, tips

Skincare Talk: Your guide to AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)

Friday, 12 July 2019 at July 12, 2019

If you don't even have the slightest clue of what AHA is, you need to read this blog post.
On today's chapter of Skincare Talk, a new series or segment on my blog that I've decided to start to share what I've learnt with you guys, I will be talking about AHA, otherwise an abbreviation of, Alpha Hydroxy Acid. So let's get straight into it.

AHA, or Alpha Hydroxy Acid, is a water soluble acid that is capable of breaking down the "glue" which holds the top layers of our skin cells together, resulting the top layers of skin to shed off, and therefore revealing newer layers of skin quicker than the average cell turnover rate of 4 to 6 weeks.

Due to this ability, it is a commonly known as a chemical exfoliant. At the same time, since AHA is water soluble, it also serves as a humectant, which, if you've read my blog post on how to moisturize your skin the correct way, you'd know that a humectant is a substance that attracts and retains moisture, making it well-loved and suitable for those who have dry skin.



Naturally, our skin renews every 4 to 6 weeks, but as we age, this cycle gets longer, causing a potential build up of dead skin cells on the top utmost layers of our skin. This layer of dead skin cells can become a source of food for acne-causing bacteria, clog pores, contribute to dull looking skin, intensify the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, slow down healing of hyper-pigmentation and acne scars, and even prevent our skin from absorbing in the goodness of our other skincare products. Thus, to solve and prevent these issues from even occurring in the first place, frequent exfoliation is required as part of our skincare routine.

Exfoliation, I'm sure we all know, is the process of removing dead skin cells and there are two methods available: chemical exfoliation, or physical exfoliation. Physical exfoliation is where you'd physically remove dead skin cells by washing your face with a wash cloth, or using a scrub, or going for dermabrasion or microdermabrasion treatments. Chemical exfoliation is when you make use of a chemical, such as AHA, to rid off dead skin cells. Apart from AHA, there are other chemical exfoliants but I will talk about them in future blog posts.

Now that we know the purpose of AHA and how it works to benefit our skin, let's take a brief look at the different types of AHA that is commonly found in skincare products (i.e. I won't be going through those that I haven't encountered). AHA, can be derived from many different sources and depending on that, it takes on a different name which is why you don't ever see "Alpha Hydroxy Acid" in the ingredient list.

1. Glycolic Acid: Possibly the most common AHA, glycolic acid is derived from fruits, namely cane sugar and it is the most popular one as it has the smallest molecules out of all AHAs, enabling it to penetrate deeper into our skin to loosen the "glue" from multiple layers of our skin at once, hence making it the strongest and most effective AHA.

2. Mandelic Acid: I first learnt about mandelic acid when I was reviewing the By Wishtrend Mandelic Skin Prep Water. It is derived from nuts, specifically almonds, so apparently if you have a nut allergy you should refrain from using this! In contrast to glycolic acid, mandelic acid has one of the biggest molecules in the family of AHAs, making it more suitable for people with sensitive skin, or if you're someone who simply prefers to be gentle with your skin.


3. Lactic Acid: Lactic acid is derived from diary and it's the in between of the first two acids. It has molecules that are bigger than glycolic acid, but smaller than mandelic acid.

4. Citric Acid: The last AHA I thought was worth mentioning is citric acid and if it's not obvious enough, it is derived mainly from citrus fruits. It's uncommon for people to think of citric acid as a chemical exfoliant even though it is an AHA, because it is usually used to simply balance and adjust the pH levels of the skincare product. I wanted to mention this because I always see citric acid in my skincare products.


"So... If I want something stronger, I'll just go for glycolic acid, and if I want something more gentle, I should go for mandelic acid? Simple!"

Well... Sort of, but not quite. Acids can have adverse effects on your skin if used incorrectly (been there, done that) so it's actually not that straight-forward. There are a few other (very important) things you need to take note of before you even go out there and buy something with AHA.

1. Concentration and strength of the acid

Basically, to keep things simple and short, a product with 10% of mandelic acid can be harsher on your skin as compared to a product with 2% of glycolic acid.

Also, just because it says "glycolic acid" on the packaging, doesn't mean it's going to be as effective as another product with glycolic acid. One of my biggest pet peeves is when skincare companies don't put the % on the packaging and sometimes you can't even find that information on their website! It could be 0.01%, who knows? This is why I avoid all skincare products that doesn't give me that information, and you should too if you want to avoid wasting time and money.

2. Your skin's tolerance

It is possible to train your skin to tolerate higher concentrates of acids, but just like how you won't be picking up a 20kg dumbbell after a week of using a 5kg one, you want to do this slowly and progressively.

Never used an AHA in your life? Try 2% - 5%. The Mario Badescu Glycolic Acid Toner is a good one to start out if you have sensitive skin as it contains aloe vera for soothing properties, it is alcohol-free, and it only contains 2% of glycolic acid. Based on my personal experience on my skin, I find that 5% of AHA works best for when I had non-sensitive skin. You will not be able to tell a visible glowy difference overnight, but it will be keep your skin's texture smooth and prevent excessive clogging. You'll be able to find 5% of AHA in the Pixi Glow Tonic (5% Glycolic), the Wishtrend Mandelic Acid 5% Skin Prep Water (5% Mandelic), the Paula's Choice Resist Advance Daily Smoothing Treatment (5% Glycolic), The Ordinary 5% Lactic Acid + HA (5% Lactic), and the Krave Kale-Lalu-yAHA (5.25% Glycolic).

If you have confidence in your skin and you want to immediately try out a higher concentrate, sure thing. Just use it once a week first, and then slowly increase the frequency as you go along. The Ordinary has a 7% Glycolic Acid toner, a 10% Mandelic Acid serum, a 10% Lactic Acid serum, Paula's Choice has a 10% AHA Advance Smoothing Treatment, and of course one of my favourite... The Drunk Elephant T.L.C Framboos Glycolic Night Serum with 12% of AHA blend.

Start slow. I cannot emphasize this enough but the key thing is to listen to your skin. When I was using the Pixi Glow Tonic on my non-sensitive skin, I did not have any redness, irritations, whatsoever and so I was able to use it daily. However, when I used the Krave Kale-Lalu-yAHA on my sensitive skin, it stung my skin even though I was only using it 2 nights a week. Once that burning sensation happens and persists for over a minute, wash it off immediately and focus on hydrating your skin first before trying to reincorporate it back to your routine. Again, if your skin is telling you that it's too much, it is too much.

3. You need to hydrate and use sunscreen

Properly hydrating your skin and sunscreen are the essentials and basic steps of skin care. Therefore, if you can't even get these basic steps right, don't bother advancing into chemical exfoliants because if you're gonna use AHA without a proper hydrating routine or sunscreen, you are going to dry out your skin, dehydrate it, destroy your skin's protective barrier, and make it even more prone to sun damages, such as darkened scars and dull skin.


In conclusion, AHA are amazing for their ability to speed up cell turnover rate without being physically damaging and traumatizing on the surface of our skin, if used correctly. Due to it being water soluble, I find that AHA is more suitable for people with dry skin. As someone with acne-prone and oily skin, I find that there are limitations to what AHA can do for my skin.

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